How to identify your hair type

HOW TO IDENTIFY YOUR HAIR TYPE

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director
Huetiful and Huetiful Salons

Nina BW Photo Website

 

Have you ever heard the question, "what is your hair type?" Among many "Hair Naturalistas", it is a popular question. This article is designed to help demystify hair typing and help you identify both what your hair type is and what hair care frustrations you might have based on your hair type. Of course, these can be generalizations as hair care regimens are dictated also by diet, hereditary factors, styling habits, and external environment (cold, high temps, humidity, wearing hats, swimming, etc.).

 

Curl Pattern

 

I love to encourage my clients to lay their wet hair strands on the screen of the phone or tablet and compare curls to this picture. Many have the misconception that all curly hair is "4c" and is dry and unmanageable. We learn during this comparison that our strands fit other categories and some single strands may have more than one type. 

 

All hair types with proper cleansing and conditioning are manageable and can be styled to the desired look with the best product selection. One hair type is not better than the other. You just need to know what your hair type is and how to best manage your particular hair type.

 

Generally speaking, the curlier your hair or the higher the number/letter, the more moisture and hydration you will need. That's because our hair is naturally moisturized by sebum. Sebum is the oil naturally secreted by your scalp. That oil travels down the hair and helps keep the hair strand moisturized. The curlier your hair naturally is, the harder it is for your hair to naturally stay moisturized.

 

This is why straight fine hair tends to be oily and requires nearly daily shampoo and cleansing while super curly hair tends to lack oil and requires moisture and hydration but doesn't require daily cleansing.

 

So, generally speaking, hair care frustrations related to lack of moisture and hydration will typically happen with hair type 3 and 4 and curl pattern b & c. As professional cosmetologists, we take that input as well as all of the external factors and determine the best way to care for your hair as well as which products might work better or worse on your hair. After seeing thousands of clients, we have a very good idea as to how to not just style...but also maintain your unique hair.

 

NOTE: It is totally possible to have more than one hair type throughout your head of hair.

 

Here are tips for managing your hair type.
Shampoo weekly. Every other week at the least. Using a hydration and moisture based shampoo will rehydrate and make the hair manageable. Hair with a lower number will be naturally straighter. The straighter your hair, the more you might need to shampoo because oil or will easily travel down and throughout your hair strands. This is also true for those who are more active.


Detangle during the shampoo: Your shampoo should make your hair soft enough to comb through. If you feel like your hair is drying out, you may need to consider a shampoo with a lower pH level. Consider shampoos that are "sulfate free" when your hair is dry. The sulfate free shampoos tend to have less surfactants (which is a fancy way to say less detergents).


Condition with every shampoo: after opening the hairs' cuticles with shampoo, your hair is ready to receive the ingredients of the conditioner. The higher the number or letter on your hair type, the more oil you will generally need in your conditioner. That's because curly and coarse hair tends to allow less oil to travel down the hair strand to the ends.


Steam: The best method to infuse hydration and conditioner to the core or "cortex" of the hair.

 

When you understand your specific hair type(s), you will start to understand what products and hair care regimen might be best for you.  


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What Causes Hair Loss. Where to go to find help.

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director
Huetiful & Huetiful Salons

 

I recently published an article on the hair growth cycle and the natural shedding of 50-150 stands a day. I also mentioned abnormal shedding where the hair comes out excessively. What is there to do when there is hair shedding rapidly, embarrassment from hair loss is happening and you are just scared!!!

 

Androgenetic hair loss can be inherited from family members. is a genetically determined disorder characterized by the gradual conversion of terminal hairs into indeterminate, and finally into vellus, hairs. It is an extremely common disease that affects men and women. ( https://emedicine.medscape.com/article/1070167-overview )

 

This type of hair loss can be categorized as various types of skin disorders or alopecias.

 

Cosmetologist can assist with treatments and regimens that can prevent and balance hair loss but the Hair Loss Practitioner, Associate Trichologist and Trichologist help identify disorders, prepare clients for visits to the dermatologist in extreme cases and provide treatments plans that can be followed at home, with a stylist or a Hair Loss Professional. 

 

Here are descriptions of Hair Loss Professionals

 

1. Hair Loss Practitioner: can identify Androgentic hair loses, as there are many.

 

2. Associate Trichologist: Understand how nutrition, health and wellness effect hair loss and can develop treatment plans.

 

3 Trichologist: are an extreme combination of the professions mentioned before who can provide the best identification of your hair loss, can work with you for years to control androgentic hair loss by monitoring and adjusting treatment plans.

 

Preventing, preparing for and treating hair loss can be done and will take time and coaching from a hair loss professional.

 

I had the honor of being trading by Trichologist Patti Woods of the United States Trichology Institute this past weekend along with 7 others. We backed Certified Hair Loss Practitioners and can help you identity and create treatment options for your hair loss journey. Hair recovery and regrowth can take time and be discouraging but there are many hair therapy and types onf Hair Loss Professionals that can help! List Below is my class list, we are a talented group of Hair Loss Professionals Looking to help you!

 

USTI Hair Loss Practitioners

 USTI

Kanaka Buford

Tiesha Smith

Myeesha Sanders

Michelle Rae

Crystal Dorado

Taneka McBee

Nina Christmas

 

Look out for information about our Hair Regrowth options and ways to connect with us in your area!


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What Causes Hair Shedding and How To Reduce It

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director

Nina

 

What causes hair shedding? And how to prevent it.

 

I have the benefit of speaking to and working with hundreds of clients a year and each year our salons service thousands of clients. So, I wanted to write this to clear up some misconceptions about hair shedding because I and so many of our stylists frequently have this conversation with clients.

 

Shedding is a natural occurrence that is necessary for new hairs to take place. There are approximately 150,000 hair strands in one persons’ scalp. While hair naturally sheds 30-150 strands per day, abnormal shedding is beyond 150 strands per day. There is this amazing growth cycle we learn about in cosmetology school called the ACTE growth cycle.

 

A for Anagen or growing stage where 80-90% of the hairs are in this stage for 2-7 years. This length of this stage determines the length of the hair.

 

C for Catagen or the transitional phase is about  ten days. During this stage, the hair follicle decreases in size and detaches from the dermal papilla or root.

 

T for Telegen, or resting, phase, which generally lasts around 3 months. Around 10-15% of the hair on your head is in this phase at any given time. While the old hair is resting, a new hair begins the growing phase.

 

E for Exogen a part of the resting phase where the old hair detaches and sheds, and new hair continues to grow. Approximately 50 to 150 of your hairs may fall out daily. That is considered a normal rate of hair shedding.

 

 Hair Cycle

 

Hair tends to shed less during a woman’s pregnancy, the body is in an incubation state and keeps as much hair and body fluids as possible  to “incubate” the fetus. When the baby is born the mother may return to her normal shedding routine. This act is called postpartum shedding, I told myself I would loose hair after having my baby because I’m a hairstylist, but no whimsical thought can stop nature. My hair did seem to come out tremendously but regenerated within a year of shedding. Many suggest continuing prenatal vitamins to prolong the postpartum act of shedding.

 

What Can You Do About Shedding?

 

1. Stress, hormones and changes in health contribute to excess in hair shedding. A good diet and exercise can help regulate hair growth.

 

2. I, personally, am a fan of hair brushing to remove excess hair that has shed. Brushing exfoliates. Brushing also stimulates blood flow. The benefit of increased blood flow is that the blood carries oxygen and nutrients that produce more growth.

 

3. Brushing also helps your natural sebum oil to be pulled from the root to the tip of your hair. This oil will keep your entire hair strand better moisturized - naturally. A boar bristle brush is best, in my opinion. 

 


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How to maintain your Blowout / Silk Press

How to Maintain your Blowout / Silk Press:

5 Tips for Wrapping and Protecting Your Hair

 

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director, Huetiful Salon

Follow Nina’s Instagram @nina_huetifulsalon

 

Getting the most value out of your blowout / silk (flat iron) press should be an everyday desire of a salon client. The best way to do this is to maintain or take care of your hair after you’ve left the salon. While Huetiful is a natural, textured hair salon, slightly more than 50% of our clients leave the salon with thermal or heat straightened hair. That is hundreds of clients every month. Based on our experience, this is the best way to wrap and protect your hair after a blowout or silk press.

 

My professional recommendation is to wrap your hair. Wrapping is a great way to minimize frizz, maintain the structure of the straightened hair, and make follow-up styling easier. It gives your hair, the following day, the opportunity to look as it did the previous day – thereby providing more value to your salon blowout / silk press.

 

Watch the video to see several tips on how to maintain your blowout / silk press and get the most value out of your service or at home styling. While a picture is worth a thousand words, the video is worth a thousand pictures.  Or - view our digital guide that will explain it all to you. 

 

 

 

 


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The Miracle Oil: Moringa at Huetiful Salon

Written by Nina Christmas, Director of Education

Nina

Many articles about the Healing Powers of Moringa are surfacing, I am writing to provide some clarity on this life saving tree.

Moringa is an African tree that can be found in Ethiopia, northern Kenya and Somalia, Madagascar, Namibia and southern Angola.  This tree grows in the Himalayas, Asia, Latin America and various tropical and sub-tropical regions

The moringa tree is a drought-resistant tree, various parts of the plants are edible and widely cultivated.

Some are suggesting use of the leaves as tea, eating the seeds, chewing the roots and grounding the seeds into fine powder to create milk! Moringa Oleifera is rich in over 90 vitamins, minerals and 46 types of antioxidants.

If you are looking for a way to increase hair growth, “The Tree of Life” or “Miracle Tree” is a source of optimal delivery of nutrients to the hair that foster hair growth.


Moringa Oleifera is found in 3 Huetiful products:


·      Huetiful Moringa Oil Treatment

·      Huetiful Hydrating Conditioner

·      Huetiful Foam Wrap Lotion


Here are 4 Key Benefits of using Moringa in your Haircare Regimen.

·      Moringa has a high content of Vitamin A, which promotes hair growth and maintenance. The presence of Vitamin A in our Moringa Oil Treatment can fight the causes of dry scalp and dandruff.

·      Vitamin E is a powerful Antioxidant that stimulates blood circulation around the scalp. Proper flow of blood to the scalp helps in absorption of more nutrients available in the hair follicles

·      Moringa is full of minerals such as calcium, copper, iron, potassium, magnesium, manganese and selenium. These minerals are essential for healthy hair.

·      Regular massage with Moringa Oil helps in reducing split ends by improving strength of the hair structure. It is full of rejuvenating vitamins that are a main supply for scalp tissue and hair follicles.

Our Founder and CEO chose this ingredient above all else because of its healing properties in 2007. I am proud to represent a company that is ahead of its time and beyond the trend in hair care. Choice ingredients that speak to longevity in hair health is the base of all Huetiful products and services.

Have you tried Moringa and How do you use it? I would love to hear from you about the improvements you have noticed.

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Why Huetiful for your Hair Extensions

By Brenda Johnson-Castillo
Lead Stylist, Huetiful Braid/Extension Department
Instagram: @brenda_huetiful

Brenda2

So, you are wondering, “Why should I go to Huetiful for my weave/extension install”? There are so many salons that have extensions as a service, so why Huetiful? I will give you the answer in three different explanations. This will help you as your looking into what to do with your hair for a protective style in the upcoming Fall/Winter months.

REASON #1. My first answer would be our quality of this service is top notched! Other salons have you come in ready to braid down, not knowing the state of your natural tresses before the install. We start the hair off with a great foundation by shampooing and hydrating of client’s hair before the install. That way your hair and scalp are fresh and ready for installation. Also, if needed the ends can be trimmed before, so that split ends don't affect the outgrowth of this install.

REASON #2. Our HuExtensions are 100% Indian Virgin Hair. The hair is shipped to your stylist AFTER consultation. Once the stylist gets it, they will pre shampoo and hydrate the extensions before installing in order to enhance the wearing experience and the look of the installed hair! Where else can you say they freshly shampoo your extensions before install? Nowhere but Huetiful!

REASON #3. The last reason to trust us is that our stylists are highly trained in all areas of extensions. So, your style will be Instagram, Facebook, and Snap Chat ready! It will not take 12 hours to get it done, either. We understand that your time is valuable and you'd prefer to get your installation at a professional place like a Huetiful Salon. We pride ourselves in one client at a time service. What better way to get in and out and be flawless at your dinner party.

I hope I have answered a few questions you may have on our service. If not, you can book a consult with any of the great and talented stylist here at Huetiful to go into further details. The point is we care about the hair you purchase and the hair still attached to the person. This all around great and amazing service for anyone is looking for a break from doing his or her own hair. Protective styles is just that, Protective. We hold your hair to the highest standards. Let’s welcome the Fall/Winter months with a new hairdo.

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Huetiful's 4 Pillars of Healthy Hair Care

In 2012, I realized that it wasn't enough to simply manufacture the Huetiful Hair Steamer. Far too many customers were using our hair steamers once a month or every other month and then going to a salon and experiencing challenges due to the processes or approaches of their stylist. So, I stepped out on a limb and opened our first Huetiful Salon in Atlanta. It was just one stylist (Nina Christmas - now our Creative Director) and a vision for how hair care should be approached. 

I started with what I considered the 4 Pillars of Healthy Hair. The video below, recorded in 2012, explains these 4 Pillars. To this day, we still focus on the 4 Pillars of Healthy Hair during every service. 





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnWbqiY6dV8

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3 Huetiful Solutions to Scalp Disorders

As a natural salon, having a through understanding of scalp disorders and ways to treat them is essential. Surprisingly, not every salon has a disciplined approach and not every salon is focused on innovative, natural solutions to common scalp disorders. 


Dandruff is not the same as shedding flakes
The outermost layer of the scalp, the epidermis, continually sheds and replaces dead skin cells. A natural shedding of these small skin cells is a normal human occurrence and is not the same as dandruff. Normal shedding will disappear when the hair is washed and brushed (NOTE: tell your male and female friends and family that just because they have short or no skin doesn't mean they shouldn't wash and brush just as frequently). 


Dandruff is the accumulation of large, visible clumps of scales on the scalp. This excessive production of skin cells is introduced to the scalp by the overgrowth of a fungal yeast, known as malassezia, that is a natural resident of the body. When the yeast grows out of control, dandruff or the symptoms of dandruff can occur. Factors such as stress, age, and poor hygiene can cause the fungus to multiply and dandruff symptoms to worsen so there are actually internal and external factors that induce dandruff.


2 Types of Dandruff
Type 1 - Pityriasis steroids is considered the more severe of the two types of dandruff. It is large greasy or waxy scales that are combined with sebum (our natural oil secreted by the scalp), thus causing the scales to stick to the scalp in white creamy patches. This severe dandruff may be accompanied by redness or inflammation and it is our recommendation that you go see a dermatologist for this. 


Type 2 - Pityriasis capitis simplex is considered the classic form of dandruff and we see it more often than Type 1 at Huetiful Salon. This is the dry type associated with flaking and itching. It is visible on hair and shoulders and can be easily removed with frequent use of anti-fungal dandruff shampoos or certain topical lotions. 


Internal Factors causing dandruff:
a. Poor circulation or metabolism
b. Poor nutrition
c. Stress and tension
d. Biochemical changes to the scalp


External Factors causing dandruff:
a. Lack of proper cleansing
b. High pH in water or shampoos
c. Poor scalp stimulation or lack of brushing
d. Oils or creams or product buildup that irritates the scalp


Treating and Preventing Dandruff
We've created and provide three different cleansing solutions to help address scalp disorders such as dandruff. 


1. Huetiful Clarifying Shampoo with Activated Charcoal. Available at the salon shampoo bowl right now and for retail sale at the salon beginning July 1st, our Huetiful Shampoo with Activated Charcoal is specifically formulated to safely and naturally cleanse and disinfect the scalp. Your stylist can use it upon request if you've been experiencing some of the symptoms above. 

Key Ingredient
* Activated Charcoal

Key Benefits:

* Absorbs & rinses away buildup

* Detangles

* Effectively and safely cleanses

Sizes: 8oz and 32oz


2. Apple cider vinegar as a pre-shampoo treatment cools and neutralizes the acidic base of the hair and scalp. We now carry apple cider vinegar at the salon for the instances in which we need to pre-shampoo your scalp and hair with it.


3. Tea tree oil is a very strong antiseptic and anti-fungal ingredient. Both are found on our retail shelf and at the salon's back bar for service. Your stylist will prescribe our Huetiful Sulfate-Free Shampoo (low pH) with Tea Tree Oil to help protect against dandruff and scalp disorders.


Knowledge is power. We hope this information and our home grown and natural solutions help you on your hair care journey. 
 

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3 Benefits of Summertime Crochet Braids

3 Reasons to go with Braids
By Chi Lowe, Huetiful Salon (Atlanta), Sr. Stylist


With summer right around the corner, NOW is the time to decide which 'do is for you!!


1. It's a protective style. Obviously the big draw to braids is that it's a low- maintenance protective style!! Traveling? Busy and on the go with summer activities for you and maybe the family? Protective styles allow you to focus less on your hair and more on enjoying your summer activities. 


2. Less breakage. Braids don't necessarily help your hair grow but they can help keep it from breaking off, which allows it to flourish. There's breakage with any protective style, so one way to minimize it is not to braid it close to the scalp, which is common. Also, crochet box braids provide an opportunity for less tension because your hair is cornrowed and the pre-braided strand is added individually onto the cornrows. It's pretty dope!!


3. 6 weeks of style. What better time than summer for seasonal styles! It's an easy low-maintenance style that allows you the flexibility and versatility of wearing everything from long braids, bohemian style to a full on braided top knot or bun.

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What gives curls...their curls?

Article by Ken Burkeen
Founder & CEO, Huetiful
Follow me on Instagram at:  @kenhuetiful

What gives textured hair its texture?

For the longest time, I've tried to steer clients and customers away from the phrase "black hair" or <fill in the blank race, ethnicity, nationality> hair. The fact of the matter is that our ethnicity, race, or nationality is not what dictates our texture. While our hair might be closely correlated with our hair texture, our hair texture is not caused by our race or ethnicity (it isn't "causal"). 

The two natural factors that cause our hair to be textured are:

1.  The protein bonding within each strand of hair.

2.  The shape of the hair follicle (cavity) in which our hair grows out from within our scalp.

Let's take a quick, deep dive into these two factors. 

  
Protein Bonds
Protein bonds are very near and dear to Huetiful's heart. It was our understanding of protein bonds, back in 2012, that resulted in the creation of our signature service - the Huetiful nanoSMOOTHING Treatment; a cysteine-based strengthening treatment that naturally loosens your curl pattern but that allows for you to have the versatility of wearing your hair curly or straight.

The strands of hair that you see are comprised largely of dead cells packed full of the fibrous protein known as keratin. This protein contains many copies of the amino acid cysteine. In the case of hair, which is largely keratin, these cysteine amino acids can bond. Curly hair has more of these bonds, referred to as disulfide bonds, than straight hair. 
 
Follicle Shape
It turns out that the shape of our follicles is also a major determinant of our hair texture if not the biggest determinant. The follicle of curly hair adopts an oval shape. The flatter the oval is, the curlier the hair will be. If you were to look at the follicle of straight hair, you would find it is perfectly round.



Altering your natural texture or curl pattern 
Follicles are the biggest determinant of our hair shape. Although we can't control this part of our hair, understanding the science of curly hair has allowed us to overcome the features genetics gave us. The old school solution of changing texture was to use perms and relaxing treatments to change the structure of hair. If you have curly hair but want straight hair, then you use chemicals that can break, or "relax", these bonds. If you want to go from straight to curly, then all you need is a chemical to allow these bonds to form.

At Huetiful, we prefer using natural techniques and processes to temporarily alter the hereditary gift of texture. Thermal straightening, after sufficient steam hydration, can allow for a temporary non-damaging straightening of hair. Huetiful nanoSMOOTHING naturally infuses cysteine and amino acids to safely restructure bonds and provide a looser texture and curl pattern. For a curly style, the combination of our Huetiful Foam Wrap Lotion, rod sets, or coil techniques provide more defined curls to our already textured curl pattern.
 
Whatever your preferred style, know that your natural texture is a gift that should be treated with patience and understanding regardless of your hue, ethnicity, or race. If you can understand the science of hair, you can develop products and techniques to safely get the styling results that you desire without compromising the long-term health of your hair.

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