How to identify your hair type

HOW TO IDENTIFY YOUR HAIR TYPE

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director
Huetiful and Huetiful Salons

Nina BW Photo Website

 

Have you ever heard the question, "what is your hair type?" Among many "Hair Naturalistas", it is a popular question. This article is designed to help demystify hair typing and help you identify both what your hair type is and what hair care frustrations you might have based on your hair type. Of course, these can be generalizations as hair care regimens are dictated also by diet, hereditary factors, styling habits, and external environment (cold, high temps, humidity, wearing hats, swimming, etc.).

 

Curl Pattern

 

I love to encourage my clients to lay their wet hair strands on the screen of the phone or tablet and compare curls to this picture. Many have the misconception that all curly hair is "4c" and is dry and unmanageable. We learn during this comparison that our strands fit other categories and some single strands may have more than one type. 

 

All hair types with proper cleansing and conditioning are manageable and can be styled to the desired look with the best product selection. One hair type is not better than the other. You just need to know what your hair type is and how to best manage your particular hair type.

 

Generally speaking, the curlier your hair or the higher the number/letter, the more moisture and hydration you will need. That's because our hair is naturally moisturized by sebum. Sebum is the oil naturally secreted by your scalp. That oil travels down the hair and helps keep the hair strand moisturized. The curlier your hair naturally is, the harder it is for your hair to naturally stay moisturized.

 

This is why straight fine hair tends to be oily and requires nearly daily shampoo and cleansing while super curly hair tends to lack oil and requires moisture and hydration but doesn't require daily cleansing.

 

So, generally speaking, hair care frustrations related to lack of moisture and hydration will typically happen with hair type 3 and 4 and curl pattern b & c. As professional cosmetologists, we take that input as well as all of the external factors and determine the best way to care for your hair as well as which products might work better or worse on your hair. After seeing thousands of clients, we have a very good idea as to how to not just style...but also maintain your unique hair.

 

NOTE: It is totally possible to have more than one hair type throughout your head of hair.

 

Here are tips for managing your hair type.
Shampoo weekly. Every other week at the least. Using a hydration and moisture based shampoo will rehydrate and make the hair manageable. Hair with a lower number will be naturally straighter. The straighter your hair, the more you might need to shampoo because oil or will easily travel down and throughout your hair strands. This is also true for those who are more active.


Detangle during the shampoo: Your shampoo should make your hair soft enough to comb through. If you feel like your hair is drying out, you may need to consider a shampoo with a lower pH level. Consider shampoos that are "sulfate free" when your hair is dry. The sulfate free shampoos tend to have less surfactants (which is a fancy way to say less detergents).


Condition with every shampoo: after opening the hairs' cuticles with shampoo, your hair is ready to receive the ingredients of the conditioner. The higher the number or letter on your hair type, the more oil you will generally need in your conditioner. That's because curly and coarse hair tends to allow less oil to travel down the hair strand to the ends.


Steam: The best method to infuse hydration and conditioner to the core or "cortex" of the hair.

 

When you understand your specific hair type(s), you will start to understand what products and hair care regimen might be best for you.  


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What Causes Hair Loss. Where to go to find help.

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director
Huetiful & Huetiful Salons

 

I recently published an article on the hair growth cycle and the natural shedding of 50-150 stands a day. I also mentioned abnormal shedding where the hair comes out excessively. What is there to do when there is hair shedding rapidly, embarrassment from hair loss is happening and you are just scared!!!

 

Androgenetic hair loss can be inherited from family members. is a genetically determined disorder characterized by the gradual conversion of terminal hairs into indeterminate, and finally into vellus, hairs. It is an extremely common disease that affects men and women. ( https://emedicine.medscape.com/article/1070167-overview )

 

This type of hair loss can be categorized as various types of skin disorders or alopecias.

 

Cosmetologist can assist with treatments and regimens that can prevent and balance hair loss but the Hair Loss Practitioner, Associate Trichologist and Trichologist help identify disorders, prepare clients for visits to the dermatologist in extreme cases and provide treatments plans that can be followed at home, with a stylist or a Hair Loss Professional. 

 

Here are descriptions of Hair Loss Professionals

 

1. Hair Loss Practitioner: can identify Androgentic hair loses, as there are many.

 

2. Associate Trichologist: Understand how nutrition, health and wellness effect hair loss and can develop treatment plans.

 

3 Trichologist: are an extreme combination of the professions mentioned before who can provide the best identification of your hair loss, can work with you for years to control androgentic hair loss by monitoring and adjusting treatment plans.

 

Preventing, preparing for and treating hair loss can be done and will take time and coaching from a hair loss professional.

 

I had the honor of being trading by Trichologist Patti Woods of the United States Trichology Institute this past weekend along with 7 others. We backed Certified Hair Loss Practitioners and can help you identity and create treatment options for your hair loss journey. Hair recovery and regrowth can take time and be discouraging but there are many hair therapy and types onf Hair Loss Professionals that can help! List Below is my class list, we are a talented group of Hair Loss Professionals Looking to help you!

 

USTI Hair Loss Practitioners

 USTI

Kanaka Buford

Tiesha Smith

Myeesha Sanders

Michelle Rae

Crystal Dorado

Taneka McBee

Nina Christmas

 

Look out for information about our Hair Regrowth options and ways to connect with us in your area!


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What Causes Hair Shedding and How To Reduce It

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director

Nina

 

What causes hair shedding? And how to prevent it.

 

I have the benefit of speaking to and working with hundreds of clients a year and each year our salons service thousands of clients. So, I wanted to write this to clear up some misconceptions about hair shedding because I and so many of our stylists frequently have this conversation with clients.

 

Shedding is a natural occurrence that is necessary for new hairs to take place. There are approximately 150,000 hair strands in one persons’ scalp. While hair naturally sheds 30-150 strands per day, abnormal shedding is beyond 150 strands per day. There is this amazing growth cycle we learn about in cosmetology school called the ACTE growth cycle.

 

A for Anagen or growing stage where 80-90% of the hairs are in this stage for 2-7 years. This length of this stage determines the length of the hair.

 

C for Catagen or the transitional phase is about  ten days. During this stage, the hair follicle decreases in size and detaches from the dermal papilla or root.

 

T for Telegen, or resting, phase, which generally lasts around 3 months. Around 10-15% of the hair on your head is in this phase at any given time. While the old hair is resting, a new hair begins the growing phase.

 

E for Exogen a part of the resting phase where the old hair detaches and sheds, and new hair continues to grow. Approximately 50 to 150 of your hairs may fall out daily. That is considered a normal rate of hair shedding.

 

 Hair Cycle

 

Hair tends to shed less during a woman’s pregnancy, the body is in an incubation state and keeps as much hair and body fluids as possible  to “incubate” the fetus. When the baby is born the mother may return to her normal shedding routine. This act is called postpartum shedding, I told myself I would loose hair after having my baby because I’m a hairstylist, but no whimsical thought can stop nature. My hair did seem to come out tremendously but regenerated within a year of shedding. Many suggest continuing prenatal vitamins to prolong the postpartum act of shedding.

 

What Can You Do About Shedding?

 

1. Stress, hormones and changes in health contribute to excess in hair shedding. A good diet and exercise can help regulate hair growth.

 

2. I, personally, am a fan of hair brushing to remove excess hair that has shed. Brushing exfoliates. Brushing also stimulates blood flow. The benefit of increased blood flow is that the blood carries oxygen and nutrients that produce more growth.

 

3. Brushing also helps your natural sebum oil to be pulled from the root to the tip of your hair. This oil will keep your entire hair strand better moisturized - naturally. A boar bristle brush is best, in my opinion. 

 


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How to maintain your Blowout / Silk Press

How to Maintain your Blowout / Silk Press:

5 Tips for Wrapping and Protecting Your Hair

 

By Nina Christmas, Creative Director, Huetiful Salon

Follow Nina’s Instagram @nina_huetifulsalon

 

Getting the most value out of your blowout / silk (flat iron) press should be an everyday desire of a salon client. The best way to do this is to maintain or take care of your hair after you’ve left the salon. While Huetiful is a natural, textured hair salon, slightly more than 50% of our clients leave the salon with thermal or heat straightened hair. That is hundreds of clients every month. Based on our experience, this is the best way to wrap and protect your hair after a blowout or silk press.

 

My professional recommendation is to wrap your hair. Wrapping is a great way to minimize frizz, maintain the structure of the straightened hair, and make follow-up styling easier. It gives your hair, the following day, the opportunity to look as it did the previous day – thereby providing more value to your salon blowout / silk press.

 

Watch the video to see several tips on how to maintain your blowout / silk press and get the most value out of your service or at home styling. While a picture is worth a thousand words, the video is worth a thousand pictures.  Or - view our digital guide that will explain it all to you. 

 

 

 

 


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